Waterwalker is the title of Bill Mason's iconic movie on canoeing. And indeed, canoeing and walking have got a lot in common. Not only the same traveling speed of about 4 kilometers per hour, but also the meditative rhythm. Countless steps on a hike are matching numerous paddle strokes on rivers and lakes. Difficult rapids where every paddle stroke needs to be placed just right, correspond to rugged mountain stages, where every single step should also be well placed. Both, portages to avoid difficult river sections and steep mountain ridges, when the going gets tough, keep the number of people you will encounter down. And the lessons to be learned - either in high mountains or on remote rivers. Lessons about one's own insignificance in the face of an overwhelming immensity. Modesty and humility will get you further.

But there are also marked differences. While you can wander around in Central Europe with, let's say, 10 kilograms of equipment (all told), a canoe trip in Canada's Back of Beyond may require an outfit that soon weighs 10 times as much (excluding food). Take the focus during preparations: while one invests a lot of time before a canoe trip to ensure that nothing is left at home (checklists). Prior to a hike, one strives to leave as much as possible at home in order to cut down on weight. Take drinking water: In Canada, it carries your canoe. On a hike you carry the water. Or the margin for error: While a single wrong step on a hike can sprain your ankle and derail your journey, it is unlikely that one wrong paddle stroke will bring your journey to a screeching halt. Take the consequences of a blunder, or bad luck: Where in Central Europe a rescue helicopter is often not too far away, a distress signal triggered in the far north of Canada can activate a Hercules CC-130 many thousands of kilometers away. Or take free miles: Where you may well travel long distances on a river without expending yourself, you won't cover a single meter on a hike if you don't push yourself. Take silence and solitude, so closely associated with Canada's North. Even in ancient forests or on high mountain slopes in Central Europe, silence and solitude is a matter of good fortune. While solitude in the Canadian North can be measured in weeks, in central Europe it is more a matter of hours - or, if you are lucky, a day or two. Whereas many mountains in Canada north of 60 are still nameless, in Central Europe every knoll has a name. Simply put: Northern Canada is ideal for extended escapes, while the mountains of Central Europe are limited to more modest ones — micro escapes.

These galleries are intended to convey an idea of what is in store along the way. For those who are planning to go and those who share an interest into long distance hiking and mountains but cannot go have a look for themselves. From Munich to Venice entices by traversing three different countries with their traditional food, customs and languages. Whereas the special charm of the Pyrenees for me was crossing Spain from one ocean to the other. The Grande Traversata delle Alpi (GTA) translates into a physical challenge accompanied by Italian food. The Dientes are hardly worth mentioning from a hiking perspective. It takes only a few days to complete the circuit. But this trail is truly south of 60 degrees (north) and the southern beeches are a beauty in their own right. The Via Dinarica was born out of the necessity to start early (June) with mountains en route but avoiding issues with snow. With regards to through-going natural beauty, I would not rank the Via Dinarica in first place. This hike is for those who are particularly interested in the Balkans. And it is a good idea to learn about the complicated and tragic history of this region beforehand. There is a very good 3-part documentary on Youtube: "Balkan in Flammen". Revisiting the Pyrenees was owed to the virus. And with travel restrictions changing every fortnight in 2021, a jaunt into the Alps seemed the most promising and straightforward.

This site is also a plea for one’s own tent. Some campsites and the hours you spend there cannot be matched by anything you could ever get in a (serviced) mountain hut.

In terms of numbers, the routes below work out as follows:

GR 11: 800 KM distance – 50 days – 34 KM ascent and descent.

HRP: 740 KM distance – 58 days – 37 KM ascent and descent.

GR 10: 911 KM distance – 67 days – 51 KM ascent and descent.

GTA: 700 KM distance – 50 days – 46 KM ascent and descent.

Munich to Venice: 610 KM distance – 33 days – 30 KM ascent and descent.

Via Dinarica: 1130 KM distance – 74 days – 42 KM ascent and descent.

Vienna to Lago di Como: 1078 KM distance – 73 days – 57 KM ascent and descent.

Or, the elevation gain and loss per 100 km of distance looks approximately like this:

GR 11: 4300 m ascent and descent.

HRP: 5000 m ascent and descent.

GR 10: 5600 m ascent and descent.

GTA: 6700 m ascent and descent.

Munich to Venice: 4900 m ascent and descent.

Via Dinarica: 3800 m ascent and descent.

Vienna to Lago di Como: 5300 m ascent and descent.

Now, especially the numbers for ascents and descents are to be taken with caution. Different algorithms result in different numbers for one and the same gpx-file. For example: Outdooractive.com estimates 43 KM for the ascent and descent of the HRP, Google in comparison only 37 KM. Even more serious is Google's limit for the maximum file size for a gpx-track (5MB). The gpx-file of the hike from Vienna into the Alps, for example, had 8.7 MB (55787 positions) and came to about 82KM in ascent and descent using Routeconverter.com. The compacteted gpx-file on Google (4.3 MB for half of the positions) gave only 77 KM for the ascent and descent using the same algorithm on Routeconverter.com. And according to the Google algorithm it was only 57.6 KM. So, in absolute terms, the numbers appear therefore not very meaningful. When comparing different routes, calculated with the same algorithm, they are, to me. It is for example pretty safe to say that the GR10 is the most demanding way to cross the Pyrenees from one end to the other. And! This isn't rocket science. The GPS files for the GR11 and HRP, as well as the other routes, were downloaded from the web beforehand, and I certainly occasionally deviated from them. Only the GR10 track was created from scratch on my desktop and later adjusted based on memory, so the displayed GR10 route closely matches what I actually hiked. All routes on one map can be found here.

When asked which trail in the Pyrenees is the best, I gave it some thought and came to this conclusion: Start from the Atlantic, cause the vegetation and the weather is similar to what it is in summer in Germany or alike. You slowly make your way to the drier and warmer Mediterranean. Choose the GR11 for the Basque Country, because I believe this is drier than further north. Take the GR11 to Ibon des Estanes. Around here change over to the HRP, because if Haute Pyrenees, do the Haute part on the HRP. Around Refuge du Portillon I would suggest to switch over to the GR10, to Refuge d`Espingo, to make sure you walk the Ariege. The Ariege (kind of starting past Bagneres de Luchon, around Fos and Melles) is special, and to me the highlight of the GR10, not to be missed. From Merens les Vals on I would choose the HRP again until Refugio Ulldeter, where I would switch back to the GR11 in order to walk through the Garrotxa (txa being spelled like “Cha” like the dance Cha Cha Cha). Albeit significantly shorter than the Ariege, the Garrotxa is just as unique. And, you are on track to finish at Cap de Creus, the definite final landmark of the Pyrenees on the Mediterranean side. Of course, choosing one way over the other you will miss out on something else. But if you want to combine “the best” parts, the above is not a bad choice. If you are interested in walking any of the three trails in its entire length I would suggest the HRP if you have enough experience in the mountains. If not enough yet, start with the GR11. Of the GR10 I would only recommend the Ariege. - My 2 Cents worth.